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V6 Jose's Kit


V6 Jose's Conversion Kit 

Jose was possibly the first to install a 2.8L V6 in an Alpine, as early as 1975.  Jose's conversion kit came about by request of two Alpine owners that were so intrigued with what they saw they too wanted to convert their Alpines.  The kit, based on Jose's original work, was designed and fabricated by a 45 year veteran designer & professional hotrod fabricator, Jim MoyerThe kit has remained essentially the same with only minor modernization, improvement upgrades since 1984.  Since that time, there have been over 130 satisfied customers.

Please note: Official V6 Jose kits are no longer being produced due to low sales volume, cost associated with production and maintaining an inventory and availability of associated parts.

Kits may be purchased by contacting me via this web site.

Kits are sold as complete sets with the exception of the headers, which are purchased separately.




Kit Components

The kit components are:
  • Motor Mount Left - with isolation bushings, flange nut and bolt
    • Requires additional two M8-1.25x20mm hex head screws
  • Motor Mount Right - with isolation bushings, flange nut and bolt
    • Requires additional three M8-1.25x20mm hex head screws
  • Steering cross link - Adjustable with ball end joints
    • Adjust to 21" on center between tie rod ends
  • T5 Transmission cross member for use on Alpines previously fitted with manual transmission
    • Requires addition of transmission mount
  • Clutch slave cylinder mounting bracket
  • Alternator mounting bracket
  • Alternator adjustment bracket
  • Equal Length Performance headers - Custom Fabricated.  Include attachment cones and header bolts.
    • Version provided kicks pipes out to the sides of the car by ~15°
    • Output angle modification is possible should straight back be desired. (Must modify stock cruciform).

Other components you will need to complete the conversion:
  • A T5 Transmission from a Ford Mustang - The preferred transmission is from behind the 1986 to 1993 5.0L V8 Mustang, due to slightly higher gear ratios for the V6; However the 1994 and later versions of the transmission will yield good results. (see above section on T5 selection).  Later versions of the T5 are readily available and are likely to have fewer miles on them.  The V6 versions may not have seen hard abuse that a V8 version could dish out.  In either case it would be advisable to have your transmission service checked prior to installation.  
 
    • Selecting your transmission:
      • Mustang 1986 to 1993 V8 World Class
        • This version has slightly higher gear ratios - Better for the 2.8L torque range.
        • Has a shorter input shaft - Does not require modification for the pilot bearing, but does require the use a pilot bearing adapter.
      • Mustang 1994 to present
        • V6 versions have slightly lower gear ratios than the V8.
        • Has longer input shaft which requires modification for pilot bearing (see T5 Modification page)

  • Transmission mount from a 5.0 V8 Mustang 79 - 93.  These are available most anywhere at a very modest price:
    • Autozone & Kragen/O'Riley sells #2530 for ~$11.00
Anchor #2530

    •  Jegs performance version Prothane #6-1604-BL sells for ~$44.00

Prothane #6-1604-BL
  • Bell housing from a 1974-79 Mustang II or Pinto 2.8L V6 with 4 speed manual transmission.
Bellhousing #D4ZA-6394
  • Block Plate for the 2.8 -
    • You can use the block plate from the following applications:
      • Mustang II 2.8L w/4 speed manual 1974-1978
      • Mustang II 2.8L w/ C3 Automatic 1974-1978
      • Pinto 2.8L
      • Aerostar van with 2.8L 1983?
  • T5 Pilot bearing adapter -
    • Three bearing adapters have been used.  Two types of adapter:
      1. Press-in-Flywheel type for Ranger/Bronco flywheel
      2. Press-in-Flywheel type for Mustang II Flywheel
      3. Bolt on type works with Mustang II flywheel without modification (Ranger flywheel requires the flywheel to be turned in a lathe to relieve material from the center hub)
        • This adapter is available from Jim Kelly for the short input shaft T5 only.
        • The Ranger/Bronco center hub is approximately 7/8" thick at the center, where the Mustang II is approximately 0.470".  The additional thickness of the Ranger/Bronco flywheel does not allow clearance for the bolt on adapter unless it is modified by matching material from the center hub. 

Type 1 Bearing adapter

Mustang II Flywheel with Type 1 Pilot Bearing & Adapter Installed
  • Volvo 19XX 240L plastic fan
    • Requires fabrication of an adapter to attach to the water pump - (No Clutch is used for this installation). Alternately a kit with prefab components is available.
    • One source for the fan blade only is Autopartswarehouse.com.
AutopartsWarehouse.com - ASC #1317465 Blade
    • A very well manufactured kit of both the blade and adapter (as pictured below), with instructions may be purchased from a fellow V6'er Dennis Michaliga.  Details of the fan kit HERE.



  • Oil filter adapter - 90° from a 83-86 Ranger/Bronco 2.8L
    • The oil filter on the 2.8 sticks straight out the side of the engine block.  The Alpine conversion requires that you source the stock oil filter adapter from a Ranger/Bronco in order to change the orientation of the filter to point down and slightly to the rear.  To make the stock filter work, you need to trim the tab as shown below:
Oil Filter Adapter - trim tab to allow a few degrees of rotation


  • Modified thermostat outlet housing
    • Jose has a source for having these modified.  Some are cast iron, and some are cast aluminum.  My experience is that a vintage aluminum version is corroded and pitted to the point where it may not be welded. 

Stock Mustang Thermostat Housing
Modified Thermostat Housing with relocated Heater
    Modified Thermo Housing - Side View
  • Clutch Slave Cylinder
Wilwood Slave



Clutch Slave Installation
  • Clutch Slave Cylinder linkage
    • A clevis to attach the cylinder to the Throw-out lever (dimensions TBD)
    • An extension rod and connector - 5/16-24 Female to 5/16-18 Female

  • Wilwood #260-1333 (7/8" bore)
    • Make sure you use a clutch master cylinder of 0.625" bore or smaller to keep your pedal pressure low.  Wilwood offers a compact master cylinder which fits in place of the stock unit:
Wilwood 260-2636 - Click to Enlarge
  • Alternator of personal preference such as one of the following:
    • Hitachi 14231 Alternator. (as used on a1980 Nissan 720 pickup L4 2.0 liter  - 35 Amp
    • Racing Alternator - 60/100 Amp
    • Others?
  • Header gaskets
  • Hedman #27110 Ford V6 2800cc
    Hedman Headers #HED-27110 ~$10.97
  • Exhaust system
    • Dual exhaust is recommended
    • Run pipes from headers under (not on top) of axle.
    • Mufflers mount under the boot floor.
    • Ensure tail pipe extends out several inches past the bumper to reduce "gasing" of the passenger compartment. 

Additional components you may need:

  • Holley #HLY-20-124 - Holley Installation Kit
  • Holley #HLY-34-6 - Secondary Metering Block Conversion Kit
  • Jet sizes for a Holley 390CFM - #56 - #60 Primary, #66 Secondary

How To:


Clutch Cylinder & Bracket Installation

Care should be taken while locating and adjusting the clutch slave cylinder in the bracket mounting holes to avoid the left steering arm from bumping the cylinder body. Two cylinder mount holes are provided so the user to select the best fit.

Make sure that the bleeder port on the cylinder is point up. You may be able to swap the bleeder fitting with the line input fitting to produce better clearance.


The rod end of the cylinder is mounted to the rear of the car, and a clevis and extension rod will need to be fabricated.


IMPORTANT:  A pedal stop should be fabricated and adjusted to prevent over extending the clutch when the pedal is fully depressed.  Adjustment should allow the clutch to disengage with an additional 1/4" of pedal movement before stopping.
 
 
Header Installation

Care should be taken to ensure the header bolts are tightened evenly. A common problem is to tighten the top bolts more than the bottom bolts because they are easier to reach. Should this occur, an exhaust leak can occur on the lower side of the header bolt flange.


 
Bell Housing


The bell housing required for this conversion was never intended to connect a T5 to the 2.8. Some components need minor modification for the bell housing to connect the T5 transmission to the V6.

The primary application which used the bell housing was the 1974-78 (some 79) Mustang II with the 2.8. It was originally connecting the 2.8 V6 to the RAD/SR4 (4 speed manual transmission) in the Mustang II.


  • The Capri bell housing is a cast iron unit that is not suitable for the conversion.

  
T5 Speed-O-meter Connection


Should you choose to use the stock Alpine Speedometer, measure how much of your old cable you will need (make sure you leave it long enough to elliminate any tight bends or kinks when you hook it up).

After you have determined the length you´ll need, take it to your local speedometer shop and have them cut the transmission end to the desired length. They can crimp a Ford connector on the trimmed end.

It is also necessary to change the ratio for an accurate speed reading. A Ford dealer can provide a 21 tooth speedometer gear for the transmission. The 21 tooth will get you 10% reading. Actual reading will depend on the total drive train reduction, which includes tire size, rear-end ratio as well as the transmission speed gear. To get an accurate reading, you will need to have a gear reduction box, which can set you back about $200.




Shifter - Optional

Tremec/Borg Warner and Ford did not include shift stops on cars equipped with the T5 transmission. Shift stops prevent the possibility of "overshifting" the transmission, particularly if you shift aggressively. For optimal performance and to protect the transmission from damage, you may prefer to install an aftermarket shifter. The addition of a shifter, such as the Pro 5.0, Holley or similar shifter will make for accurate shifting.
Timing Cover

The Mustang timing cover is almost identical to the Ranger/Bronco version with the only difference being the water pump interface.  The Mustang water pump is necessary for this conversion is because the pump itself is approximately 2.5" shorter in length than the Ranger/Bronco.
In theory, it may be possible to adapt the Mustang pump to the Ranger/Bronco cover by the addition of a custom adapter plate.  Any addition in this area will take away from the already tight clearance between the radiator and the fan blades.  It is unknown if anyone has attempted this modification.

Timing cover fitment

The timing cover needs to be centered on the crankshaft to prevent oil from leaking past the seal.  More on this is done by attaching the timing cover with oil seal, gaskets and sealer applied.  Leave the bolts loose and work quickly before the sealer cures.  Temporarily install the crank pulley and shift the position of the cover gently back and forth, up and down to make sure it is centered.  Snug the timing cover bolts to prevent slippage.  Torque the bolts to the published specification.



Fan & Adapter Installation


The fan and adapter are not provided in this conversion kit, however there is a fan kit available for purchase from another V6 enthusiast.

Due to space constraints between the radiator and the water pump It is necessary to drive the blade directly rather than attempt to use a fan clutch.

The most commonly implemented fan blade for this application is is from a Volvo 240DL and is available via mail order sources, however a custom adapter can be purchased with the fore mentioned blade by contacting "dmich" on the SAOCA forum.
Alternately, a fan blade adapter can be fabricated to adapt the fan to the water pump flange. (Dimensional information TBD)

Some users have opted for electric fans which have proven to be successful. One user has reported installed dual 8" fans, and has indicated that dual 9" may fit as well., however that implementation will not be covered in this instruction at this time.




Radiator Modifications

The stock Alpine radiator is a close fit, but does provide adequate clearance for the cooling fan (as mentioned above); However it is necessary to have it re-cored to a three row core to increase the cooling capacity. 
Due to the location of the V6 coolant inlet and outlet, it is necessary to modify the stock radiator to put the inlet on the lower left corner and outlet in the upper right. <see photos>

Thermostat Housing Modification

The thermostat housing from the Mustang V6 has a heater hose connection that the Ranger Bronco doesn't.  In addition the Ranger/Bronco Thermostat housing does not fit the Mustang Timing cover & Water Pump.  The Mustang housing is available new from <source & part number>, but still needs to be modified to offer an appropriate connection angle of the lower radiator hose.  (See source of modified housing in above list.)



  • Replacement for Front Thermostat housing (Four Seasons #84861) ~$14
    • Carquest auto parts- #W4140
    • Summit Racing #84861
  • Replacement for Rear housing (Four Seasons #84878) ~ $16:
    • Car Quest Auto Parts #W4145
    • Summit Racing #84878

The top engine water inlet is available from Big Red Auto Parts, Fontana California if you run the stock manifold.



Distributors and Ignition


The early V6's had small distributor caps measuring approximately X inches across.  It is believed that the these smaller distributor caps would build up ozone during operation and cause the spark to jump prematurely.  Should this become a problem, a suggested solution is to drill the cap with a couple of 1/8" holes in a to allow ventilation. If you choose to drill the cap, and since Ozone is lighter than air, a hole at the top and one toward the bottom would provide a convection flow. 

Later years used a larger distributor which did not suffer from the issue mentioned above, however it being larger can make finding desirable air cleaners/filters more difficult.

Ignition components & modules......


Fuel Pump

I prefer an electric fuel pump rather than the mechanical pump that comes on the V6.  Should you go electric, you'll need to fabricate a cover plate for the mechanical pump block location.
  • The Holley 4150/8007 requires 5 psi minimum.
  • Other carbs - Some prefer to stay with stock 2 barrel carbs, which don't require the Offenhauser manifold.
  • Fuel injection - TheRangerStation.com makes reference to using a Chevy 2.8 EFI system on the Ford 2.8, however I'm unaware of anyone installing on an Alpine.

Air Filters

This is saving space




Custom Part references:

Modified Welded thermostat housing
          Jim Moyer

Pilot Bearing Adapter - (for short input shaft T5 & Mustang II Flywheel or machined Ranger Flywheel)
          Jeff Kelly

Cooling fan & adapter

         Dennis Mich


Jose's Recommendations for perfect valve adjustment:  

Click here for more detailed instruction

"Adjusting the valves on a 2.8 V6 Ford so they don't make noise, can be a bit tricky because of the custom grind of the Camshaft.

Rather than the standard valve setting method, adjust them cold, but don't allow extra clearance for when the engine warms up. I adjust the valve to the spec (.014" intake, .016" exhaust) as snug as I can, so that the feelers gauge will barely move. Then bump the engine and readjust it again. You will find that the valve has loosened a bit and needs to be adjusted again just like like before. Again bump the engine and check the lash again. If it has loosened up, readjust as described here again.  It usually takes about three times to get it to where it doesn't loosen up as you bump the engine

I have been adjusting the valves like this for more than 38 years, and have never had noisy valves nor had a valve burn because of it being too tight. The engine will run strong and long."

Jose  

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

I have begun my V6 conversation.

Joined the Sunbeam club, read all the posts my eyes can stand late at night BUT this is the best complete instruction information that I have found

Excellent Job

John in Colorado